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It is important that the torsion spring assembly be
firmly and securely attached to the frame of the garage. |
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Refer to Figure TOR-1 for the configuration of 2" x 6"
wood jambs. |
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Important: The wood anchor pad must be made of a
Grade 2 or better southern yellow pine (also known as
southern pine or yellow pine). Other |
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acceptable types of wood for this application are beech,
birch, hickory, and oak. The wood must be free of splits and
cracks. Do not use wood labeled as spruce pine fir (or SPF). |
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Each side jamb and the center anchor pad should extend 12"
above the top of the opening for 12" radius horizontal track
and 15" above the top of the opening for 15" radius
horizontal track. |
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The wood anchor pad must be attached to the frame of the
garage with at least four 3/8" x 4" long lag screws for
wooden frames or four 3/8" x 4" long sleeve anchors for
concrete frames. (one at each corner). The four fasteners
must be installed no closer than 1-1/2" from the sides and
the ends of the anchor pad. These fasteners must be embedded
into the frame of the garage, not the drywall or sheet rock.
The wood anchor pad and fasteners are not supplied. Do not
use nails. |
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NOTE: The wood anchor pad can be off-center to the
width of the opening by up to 10" in either direction. |
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Click HERE for larger version of the above graphic (TOR-2) |
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Step 2 -
Assemble
the torsion springs to the spring tube |
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Lock the door in the down position securely using door
lock or locking pliers. This must be done to prevent the door
from prematurely opening which could cause an injury. |
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NOTE: You need an assistant in Step 4. If your garage has
only one entrance, be sure you, the assistant, and the tools
you need are inside before you lock the door. Your door will
have either one or two torsion springs. Each torsion spring
consists of spring coils, stationary cone, and a winding cone
(FIG. TOR-2). The spring coils are color-coded depending on
the spring size and the winding cone is color coded
separately, either red or black. The color on the winding
cone is to help identify on which side of the door the spring
is to be used. |
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Black winding cone torsion springs are used on the right
side of the door and red winding cone torsion springs are
used on the left side of the door when viewing the door from
the inside looking out. Failure to install the torsion
springs on the correct side will cause your door to function
improperly and could result in serious injury. (NOTE: If
you have low headroom, these instructions DO NOT APPLY.
Consult supplemental low headroom instructions.) |
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Slip the torsion springs onto the spring tube, the red
winding cone on the left end, the nylon center
bearing, center bearing plate, and the black winding
cone torsion spring on the right end (FIG. TOR-3).
Cable drums go on next, the red drum on the left,
black drum on the right. The set screws on the drums face
the springs. |
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Click HERE for larger version of the above graphic |
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Step 3 -
Attach mounting
plates to garage door frame |
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Fasten the bottom of the end bearing plate to the horizontal
angle with (2) 3/8" x 3/4" long hex head bolts and hex nuts.
The bottom of the end bearing plate is identified by two
parallel rows of two slots. Please make sure to use the
bottom two slots for 12" radius horizontal track, and the
upper two slots for 15" radius horizontal track. When
properly mounted the torsion tube is level and straight (FIG.
TOR-4A). |
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Before installing any lag screws, it is important to drill
3/16" pilot holes where the lag screws are to be attached.
Fasten the wall flange on the end bearing plate to the wood
jamb with (1) 5/16" x 1-5/8" long lag screw. Drill 3/16"
pilot holes where lag screws are to be installed. On 12"
radius horizontal track, each end bearing plate should also
be attached with 3/8" x 3/4" carriage bolts and 3/8" nuts
(FIG. TOR-4). |
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Step 4 - Attach assembled torsion springs to mounting
plates |
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With an assistant, lift the complete torsion spring tube
assembly and slide the ends of the tube into the bearing on
the end bearing plates. With the tube level, mount the center
bearing plate to the center anchor pad using (2) 5/16" x
1-5/8" long lag, red-coated screws. |
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NOTE: Red-headed fasteners must be installed for the
attachment of center bearing plate to indicate this part will
be under extreme tension once spring is wound (FIG. TOR-5). |
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Before mounting the center bearing plate, drill (2) 3/16"
pilot holes for the lag screws. These pilot holes must be no
closer than 1-1/2" from the sides and ends of the wood anchor
pad. The center bearing plate resists the considerable
counter torque of the springs. This wood anchor pad must be
installed to the frame of the garage as stated in Step 1. |
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Step 5 - Install torsion spring cables |
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The cable that is attached to each bottom bracket is brought
up between the wall and roller shafts to the cable drum. This
cable is placed in the notch on the cable drum. Turning the
cable drum and sliding it up tight against the end bearing
plate removes the cable slack. Make sure the cable follows
the grooves in the cable drum. The set screws on the
cable drum should be tightened with a 3/8" box wrench while
holding the cable taut. Locking pliers clamped to the torsion
spring tube maintain tension on the cable (FIG. TOR-2). This
procedure should be repeated on the opposite side. |
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Step 6 - Adjust torsion spring with winding bars |
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Check for a straight line drawn across the length of the
spring(s). If no line is present, draw one using a piece of
chalk. This will be used to indicate the number of turns on
the spring(s). After inserting the two winding bars all the
way into the winding cone, wind the springs 1/4 turn at a
time in an upward direction as shown in FIG. TOR-5. The
number of turns is shown in the table in FIG. TOR-2. The tail
of the torsion spring coil points in the direction that the
spring is wound (FIG. TOR-5A). |
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NEVER use screwdrivers or other substitutes for
winding bars! Stand to the side of bars. Be sure to
insert the bars all the way into the hole. |
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Secure each spring with the set screws on the winding cone. (Caution:
Set screws should be turned from 3/4 to one full turn after
they have made contact with the tube.) On doors with two
torsion springs, each torsion spring should be wound the same
number of turns. Remove the locking pliers.
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Step 7 - Carefully test door function |
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Unlock the door, slowly raise the door and prop it about
halfway open. |
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This is the first time the new door is being opened. If
the tracks are not correctly aligned or the back hangers are
not strong enough, the door may fall. Proceed slowly and
carefully. |
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Check to be sure the horizontal tracks are parallel with each
side of the door. Make sure all the lag screws are securely
fastened. With the door about halfway open, make sure the
rollers do not come out of the top brackets more than about
1/2 inch. If adjustment of the rear track hanger is
necessary, the door must be locked in the closed position
because the weight of the door is supported by the rear
hangers. |
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NOTE: If the torsion springs do not increase in
tension as the 1/4 turns are added to the springs, then you
probably have the torsion springs reversed. (See Step 2.) |
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Step 8 - Final adjustments, if necessary |
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To adjust torsion spring tension, the door is locked in the
down position. With locking pliers clamped on the torsion
tube, winding bars are used to wind the springs tighter to
increase tension. Tension is reduced by removing turns. When
two springs are used, both sides should be adjusted the same.
Adjustments should be made in 1/4 turn increments. |
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NEVER adjust center bearing plate or red-headed fasteners
after springs are wound. Be prepared to handle a strong force
when reducing tension on a torsion spring. Use winding bars
only, and stand to the side.
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